A
real "hop-picking" morning is a familiar saying for anyone who has lived in Kent
in the typical farming areas. A morning when the sun rises a shimmering fiery orange globe
from the low mists which roll around the willows along the banks of the River Stour. When
the smell of the damp soil is pungent and the spiders webs hang heavy with dew in the
hedgerows and sparkle with the brilliance of a thousand diamonds. Overhead
there is the sudden swish from the wings of the speeding wood pigeons as they set out to
feed in the corn stubble and the melodic song thrush can be heard pouring out his heart to
the World from his vantage point on a nearby chimney. The air is crisp and the light
breeze cool, a portent of the frosty mornings yet to come when the long grasses at the
edge of the fields will be adorned with the clinging lace of hoar frost bending their tops
to the ground.
The hop fields are fragrant with the heavy smell
of the hop flowers and the bines are so thick with leaves to the point where the poles
that support them, which are so obvious on the landscape in the Spring, can no longer been
seen. Surrounding the hop fields are the rows of poplars with their twisting, fluttering
leaves that whisper back to the wind. Inside the hop gardens themselves, under the canopy
of the bines which compete with each other to reach the sun and the light, there is a
sininster darkness only broken occasionally by a sudden stabbing shaft of light where a
bine has broken or failed to grow. The rows seem endless, the narrow hills on which the
plants were started, disappear into the distance and the dark and the sounds of the
outside World fade away, muffled by the intense growth of the bines. There is a hush, a
moment of peace, almost ethereal...
At one time Kent had over thirty thousand acres
devoted to the growing of hops although what that figure is today, I have no idea. I
suspect somewhat less although if someone would care to enlighten me, I would be obliged.
Certainly, since the sixteenth century when the hop was introduced to England, Kent and
beer, it has been an important commodity and vital to the local economy. As a writer by
the name of Thomas Tusser once said in his abstract about hop growing:
Meet plot for a hop yard, once found as is told,
Make thereof account, as of Jewell of gold:
Now dig it, and leave it the sun for to burn,
And afterwards fence it, to serve for that turn.
These days, like so many other things, hop
picking is fully mechanised which means that a whole legacy of words and phrases have
disappeared from the local language. What child now knows what a bushel is? It is, for the
aid of the uninformed, a measure of quantity being eight gallons and was the size of the
baskets in which hops were hand picked. These bushel baskets were then placed into bins.
Sections of the hop gardens were looked after by "bin-men", a kind of foreman,
who would as a badge of his rank carry a long pole tipped with a sharp hook which he would
use to cut the bines away from the hop-twine that supported them.
At regular intervals during the day while
picking was in process, the contents of the bins would be collected and emptied into
hop-sacks to be taken to the oast house for drying. This process would be supervised by
the "tally-man" who was usually the farm bailiff and would keep a running total
of the number of bushels picked by each person or family. As a child in the hop gardens,
you would be in trouble if you got caught misbehaving by one of the bin-men, but Lord help
you if you were caught by the tally-man!
Prior to mechanisation, most of the picking was
done by local casual labour but it wasn't so long ago that hundreds of Londoners would
make the trip into the Kent countryside for about three weeks every year to stay in small
wooden shacks or huts on the hop farms to do the picking. It was an annual vacation for
which they got paid. |